
Prof. D. W. Moody's 

New Work 
On Dressmaking. 



1 
i 







^ 



Jlhis Mook is Respectfully J^edicated 

TO 

AND 

TO THOSE USING MOODY'S NEW AND PERFECT 
TAILOR SYSTEM OF SQUARE MEASUREMENT. FOR GARMENT 
CUTTING, 

Respectfully, 

!£rof. $r. "W 9Koody. 

Y — " 



<*© 



pntentsu 



PAGK. 

Preface ? 2 & 3 

Suggestions on Dress-making 3 

Keep Order in Your Work Room 3 

How Draftings are Made for Various Figures 4 

Hollow and Round Shoulders • • 4 

To Draft the Front of an Outside Garment 4 

The Letter T 4 

Various Styles of Darts, and Why Dresses 

Wrinkle ' 4 

Basting and Finishing Waists 5 

Directions for Taking Measures 5 

Taking Measures for Sleeves .• 6 

Draping and Advice 6 & 7 

Making Foundation of Skirts 7 

Taking Measures fob Ulsters, Mantles, &c. 7 



PAGE. 

Child's Gabrielle 7 

Boy's Coat 7 

Dolman Cutting : 8 & 9 

Cutting Skirts ....>. 10 

Cutting Sleeves • '. 11 

Cutting Lady's Coat ■ \ . . 12 

How to Save Half to One Yard of Goods 

When Cutting \. ... 13 

Double Under Arm Gores for Stout Ladies.. 14 

To Draft Russian Cape 15 

Taking Measures for Russian Cape 16 

Drafting Little Girls' Dresses 16 

Drafting High-Shouldered Capes 16 

Testing Your Drafting . 16 



First Edition Published in Ca nada 

Last Book in Second American Edition Numbers 16,000 



<r^x^^>o<fi^*^§-^ 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S 
JM|£W BOO& 

GIVING COMPLETE AND ELABORATE INSTRUCTIONS IN ALL BRANCHES OF 

Dress Cutting, Dress Making, Sewing and Basting 

AND. IN ADDITION, 
FULL AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ARE GIVEN FOR CUTTING 

NEW MANTLES AND DOLMANS, 

COMPRISING 

91tany 5TCew ^iafFams ar^d cJnstouefciei^s 



Which Have Never Been Taught or Published Before. 



COMPLETE ILLUSTRATIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS ARE GIVEN FOR 

GUTTING ALL STYLES OF GARMENTS 

To Fit Stout Ladies and Little Children, as Well as the Most Perfect Form. 



ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS AND ORDERS FOR THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA TO 

Prof. D. W. Moody, Cincinnati, Ohio, 



AND ALL CANADIAN ORDERS TO 

D. W. Moody & Co., Toronto Ont. 



COPYRIGHTED BY PROF. D. W. MOODY, MARCH 2 



H 



PREFACE, 



Our readers will please give strict adherence to the 
following hints, as well as to this entire work, from begin- 
ning to end. The objects set forth are only those which 
can be understood by reading and studying as you read. 
You can not understand an illustration by simply staring 
at it, but you must learn every dot and line as you read. 
Do not expect, because you are the owner of one of Prof. 
Moody's New and Perfect Tailor Systems and this 
book, that you are classed among the leading cutters and 
modistes of the country, but you must commence study- 
ing, and learn first to draw line " A," then line " B," and 
so on until you have committed it all to memory. 

Your writer is the originator of the first school ever 
established for teaching dress-cutting and dress-making, 
which school was established at No. 31 West Ninth St., 
Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S. A., June 21st, 1882. Your writer 
is also the inventor of the first and only system of square 
measurement ever applied to dress-cutting that would 
draft each and every piece of a dress or other garment 
on the cloth without the use of paper or patterns. It is 
true that many claim to have invented systems, scales 
or charts for dress-cutting, which would transform babes 
from their mother's breast to dress-makers, surpassing 
Worth, of Paris; but if our readers will investigate such 
systems, scales or charts, they will see there is no part 
of an invention in them, and if you ask the "inventors;" 
as they style themselves, " Where did you take your first 
lesson in dress-cutting, and who was your teacher?" 
they will all refuse to answer you, because if they do, 
they must say, "Prof. D. W. Moody gave me my first 
lesson." 

Ask any of those who claim to be inventors of dress- 
cutting who gave them their first lesson. This question 
they will not answer, but if it were an easy one and a safe 
one for them to answer, they would not hesitate to make 
an open statement. They are all sailing in the same 
boat, and can not tell how they got there. If they do, 
they know it would sink them;' but Prof. D. W. Moody 
is not ashamed to let the world examine his work, as it 
is a purely original invention, and one that meets oppo- 
sition only by infringement. 

Again, these infringers sarcastically say : " Why does 
Prof. D. W. Moody not go to law and stop us, and not 
allow so many infringements to come up against him?" 
These infringers have no money and no honor, and it 
would be like trying to bleed a stone to sue a man or 
woman who has nothing to loose. A judgment against a 
man or woman who has lost all sense of honor would 
not be considered worth the paper it was written on, as 
such people, on leaving home, usually take everything 
they possess with them, except their mortgages, and would 
give one a great deal of trouble to get half the cost, to say 
nothing about the judgment for damages. 

It is true an inventor now and then gets a judgment 
and collects damages for an infringement on his inven- 
tion, but why is it? Simply because a shrewd infringer, 
expecting trouble, will, if possible, implicate some reli- 
able person by selling him an interest in his infringe- 
ment, or by giving some firm of good standing a con- 
tract to manufacture a quantity of his infringements, 
and when a judgment is rendered it usually falls on the 
man of the firm or partnership who has money, whether 
he is actually guilty of the infringement, or simply a 
tool in the hands of the real infringer. Again we may 
say that almost every inventor is a poor man when his 
invention is completed, and consequently at times un- 
able to defend himself against patent stealers. The 



world is full of men who never work, but are always try- 
ing to steal what others have worked for. You may 
easily find these men by looking over the papers in any 
city. They generally answer advertisements where men 
want more capital to develop their patents, and you may 
notice their advertisements, offering to loan inventors 
money to help them to perfect their patents or inven- 
tions. These sharpers are generally slick talkers, and 
can be found in a back room, up two or three flights of 
stairs, their furniture consisting of a few broken-legged 
chairs and stools and a second-hand desk full of worn- 
out pigeon holes, containing letters they and their 
"cappers" have written, which they offer as references 
to show how much good they have done some other 
inventor ; and to make a long story short, there is a band 
of these men who work together, some of Whom can be 
found in every city in the United States or Canada. 
We have in our possession a list of names and addresses 
of these people, which we will send free of charge to 
any one desiring it. We can also show good cause for 
setting each man down as what is commonly called a 
" Patent Shark." 

Young men and women should beware of men who 
claim to know it all, and they should well and carefully 
consider any and all propositions made by such men, if 
indeed they think them worthy of consideration at all ; 
and if they should chance to get into the hands of a 
sharper, they should never let them know how they dis- 
covered their true character, but drop them as they 
would a hot stove. 

A young man or woman should not run all over the 
country hunting advice as to what they should or should 
not do, but should depend largely on their own judg- 
ment, and by so doing will place themselves on the sure 
road to fortune. 

" Believe you're right, then go ahead," is an excellent 
maxim, and as almost every person has some ability to 
read human nature, a little firmness at the critical moment 
may decide your destiny. In dealing with a man you 
have reason to suspect, it is an excellent plan to make 
him tell either more than one lie, or nothing but the truth. 

It is not deemed wrong in a business sense for a man 
to praise his own goods, but when he commences to run 
down his neighbor's, and offers no cause for his state- 
ment, you can soon catch him in more than one lie, 
which should convince you that he is not the man 
for you to deal with. Beware of men and women who 
travel through the country claiming to have the agency 
for some article, when they offer you four or five times 
the value of the money they want you to advance, unless 
you get the goods when you pay the money. 

Thousands of ladies are swindled every day by such 
people. 

Many people travel through the country claiming to 
be publishers' agents, and promise that every subscriber 
will get more from them than even the publishers offer 
to give, and many of these people are strangers to the 
publishers they claim to be representing. 

It might be well for every person who buys goods or 
subscribes for any publication to write the house at once, 
so that frauds might be caught before they had done 
much harm. 

The public at large must admit that they are to 
blame for allowing frauds to collect money under such 
gross false pretenses as are made every day throughout 
the entire country; and that such transactions may be 
brought to a close, let every person be sure the person 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



representing himself or herself as an authorized agent to 
collect money, has a written authority, and if you have 
the least doubt, deposit the money in the express office 
until you get the goods according to contract. This 
manner of dealing with strangers will suit those who are 
honest, and those who are not will soon find other employ- 
ment, or get behind the bars, where they should be. 

A large portion of the foregoing is only given as 
advice, and would not be offered in this book, only your 
writer has traveled for years, and has many near and 
dear friends who will gratefully accept it, and others can 
only say it is good advice, let them decide as they will. 

Your writer has had hundreds of agents in the field 
canvassing, and many thousands of ladies have become 
the owners of Prof. D. W. Moody's New and Perfect 
Tailor System through good, honest agents, and others 
have been swindled by persons claiming to be my repre- 
sentatives, when they were strangers to me and had not 
the authority for collecting money in my name. Over 
100,000 of my systems have been sold in the last six years 
that are now in use, and thousands of ladies are making 
not only a good living, but are becoming wealthy, simply 
because they learned Prof. D. W. Moody's New and Per- 
fect Taylor System of Square Measurement for Dress- 
Cutting, and thousands more will soon be added to the 
list, as the sale is increasing daily throughout the world. 
Owing to my business experience and the number of 
inventions I have placed on the market, it is generally 
supposed I am an aged'man, but that all may be correctly 
informed, I will state that I was born on the 10th day of 
March, 1853, and was consequently 33 years of age, 
March 10th, 1886. 

On another page of this book I will give a list of refer- 
ences, who are people of good standing and who are well 
acquainted with me, either from attending one of my 
schools or by dealing with me in business. Those who 
are students of my schools will be classed as such, and 
others will be classed according to their business, and 
my readers are invited to correspond with some of the 
persons mentioned before placing any confidence in my 
professions. I desire that the public may make a thor- 
ough investigation of the man they are dealing with 
before they invest their money. 

Be careful not to pay money to any person claiming 
to be representing Prof. D. W. Moody, Prof. Moody, D. 
W. Moody, D. W. Moody & Co., or Moody & Co., unless 
he or she can show a contract signed by Prof. D. W. 
Moody and bearing an impression of my seal shown on 
another page of this book. I have adopted this plan 
because there are many now traveling through the coun- 
try claiming to be my agents who are not, and are 
strangers to me. Our agents often get notice from us 
that we will not renew their contracts, as we have learned 
beyond a doubt that they are unworthy of their position, 
and on this account we deem it advisable for persons 
buying our goods to see if their contract is good and 
has not expired, and if they find it to be genuine and in 
force we will comply with it to the letter. We may 
again warn you that you should get the goods you buy 
before you pay the money to strangers. Do anything 
that is honorable to protect the agent as well as yourself 
by depositing the money with the express company to 
be paid when the goods arrive at the express office, or 
when you receive the goods yourself. 

Much more might be written upon the subjects above 
mentioned, but space will not permit. 

In conclusion, I desire to say that I am the author of 
the instructions, and the sole inventor of each and every 
diagram shown in this book, which is copyrighted all 
over the world, and infringers will be prosecuted to the 
full extent of the law. 

I remain, 

Yours very respectfully, 

PROF. D. W, MOODY, 



SUGGESTIONS ON DRESS AND MANTLE MAKING. 

The reason so many ladies never acquire proficiency 
in dress-making is because they consider it a useless 
amusement, and when they commence to attend Prof. 
Moody's school, frequently mix so much fun with the 
business as to never derive any actual benefit from the 
instruction. 

Now, my dear reader, I ask you to open your eyes and 
exercise your natural comprehensiveness while reading 
this work, and if you can not then grasp the idea, you 
may as well never try to learn anything. 

Many rfrrsx-makrrs ruin their business simply by mis- 
management in handling customers. Many good dress- 
makers merely eke out an existence, when by careful 
management they might rank among the first mo- 
distes of the country. 

Never tell a customer your price for making a garment 
until you have told her everything else she wants to 
know. 

Never cut your price down because a customer 
promises you her influence. The best influence you can 
possibly have is the reputation for good work. The in- 
fluence of a person who will beat you down below living 
prices is not worth consideration. 

Always meet your customer with a smile on your face. 
Tell her at once that you have a house full of work and 
that you are making more pretty and stylish dresses 
than any other dress-maker in the city, and that you al- 
ways have plenty of dresses to make and never have a 
duil season, because you give your customers entire sat- 
isfaction, and last though not least, because you cut by 
Prof. D. W. Moody's New and Perfect Tailor System 
of Square Measurement, which always gives such ex- 
quisite fits that the dress is the ornament of the body, 
and "how beautifully that lady's dress fits" becomes a 
common expression. It soon becomes known who made 
the dress and by what system it was cut, which not only 
causes old customers to return with new garments to 
make, but that often their friends, as well as strangers, 
follow them to your place of business and that you 
never fail to please them all. 

Do not show your customer more than one Fashion 
Journal if you can avoid it, and then select a style or 
design which you think will be most becoming to her 
figure, and take the order for that if possible. 

Do not allow your customers to run your business, or 
you will soon have no business to run. 

KEEP ORDER IN YOUR WORK ROOMS. 

This is one of the most essential points in conducting 
a profitable business, and one to which special attention 
should be given. Have your girls take turns in cleaning 
up the rooms, and see that it is done every evening be- 
fore they go home, or, in case your are obliged to work 
during the evening, let one of the girls go home early 
and have her clean up the rooms before working hours 
next morning. 

Be sure your work is done according to instructions. 
No girl will give you credit for teaching or allowing her 
to be indolent, but if you teach her to be prompt and to 
do her duty she will always love and respect you for it. 

Always keep your sewing girls out of sight of your 
customers, otherwise they will neglect their work, listen- 
ing to what the customers are saying. 

Never quarrel with your girls, but always be kind to 
them, and if you have a tattle-tale or mischief-maker 
among them keep her in a corner alone or dismiss her 
entirely, as such a girl will in time make you trouble 
and will be sure to do you no good. 

Always be present yourself to wait on a customer if 
possible, and if a mistake should occur, don't quarrel 
with your girls or the customer, but tell her at once that 
you will make it good and do so immediately, which you 
will find to pay you in the long run. 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



In taking orders be careful to write down all the in- 
structions plainly, so that no error can creep in, and 
then if your customer should choose to blame you for 
any dissatisfaction she may feel, you will have proof of 
your correctness. 

Nothing is more important than for a dress-maker to 
know that she can cut a dress or other garment to a per- 
fect fit, although a person, however competent she may 
be, who is conceited enough to declare she knows it all, 
will not succeed in the dress-making business. 

Don't think of doing a credit business, but do your 
work well and collect your bills, or don't deliver the 
dresses. Don't allow any lady, rich or poor, to wear 
garments you have made, until you get your pay. You 
can not pay your hands on promises. You can better 
afford to lose customers than to make dresses for noth- 
ing. You can always find plenty of cash customers, 
who will pay a good price for good work, and your 
motto should be to give the finest fitting and most styl- 
ish dresses at a good living price. 

Your writer has been the cause of hundreds of dress- 
makers changing their way of doing business, and my 
advice is now, and always has been, to stand firm and 
don't notice, what others are doing, but look after your 
own business. 

Never talk about your neighbor because others do, or 
because others talk about you. Nothing will sicken a 
customer quicker than to have you tell her about this 
or that dress-maker who spoiled a dress for Mrs. Jones 
or some other person, when probably the news you have 
is only from the tongue of some one who never has a 
good word for any one. If you don't like your oppo- 
nents in business, say nothing about them. 
HOW DRAFTINGS SHOULD BE MADE FOR VARIOUS FIGURES. 

There are many ladies who stand very erect, or rather 
lean back, and many of these ladies lean back to such an 
extent, that instead of only allowing the spring in the back 
to run from the waist line to a point about half way from 
the waist line to the back of the neck, the spring in the 
back, or rather the line known as line H in Fig. One, 
front side of Moody's System, or line K, Fig. One, 
French back, should be drawn from dot 4 to the back of 
the neck, and if the lady leans back to any great extent, 
you should draft the back two bust numbers smaller 
than you have taken the measure as well as to continue 
the line above described to the back of the neck. 
HOLLOW AND ROUND SHOULDERS. 

Many ladies take particular pains to tell the dress- 
maker that their shoulders are hollow or round, but the 
dress-maker should give no attention to anything said 
by the customer when taking her order, but should 
study the form she is measuring, and simply answer yes 
or no to the customer, and when cutting the garment, 
use your best judgment, and if you are satisfied that the 
shoulder is hollow or very low in the centre, in this case 
draft the shoulder the same as the ordinary form ; but 
when basting, baste it -J- of an inch lower in the centre 
than at each end of the shoulder seam. If, on the other 
hand, the shoulder is round, baste — I — of an inch higher 
in the centre than at each point or end of the shoulder 
seam. 

It is true that by many systems or methods of cut- 
ting it is necessary to invariably change the shoulder, 
but it is not so in Moody's System, as there is not one 
lady in a thousand that Moody's System will not fit 
perfectly on the shoulders as well as all other parts of 
the body when the drafting is made from a correct 
measure according to instructions given in Moody's 
System. 

To draw line H in French back for any kind of a gar- 
ment the distance between the point of the shoulder 
and dot 7 should not exceed— 4— inches. If dot 7 should 
be first made according to instructions more than — i — 



inches from the end of line G or shoulder, you 
should then make a new dot 7 in the same direction 
from the point of the shoulder and just — 4 — inches from 
the point of the shoulder and draw line H about two- 
thirds of the — 4 — inches ; the other one-third should be 
the distance that dot 3 in the French side body is from 
line B. If dot 7 is less than — 4 — inches, line H should 
be drawn about two-thirds of the entire distance be- 
tween dot 7 and the end of line G or shoulder; the other 
one-third should then be the distance between dot 3 and 
line B in French side body to dot 3. 

TO DRAFT THE FRONT OF AN OUTSIDE GARMENT, 
Cloak, Dolman, Mantle, Jacket or a Coat and Vest com- 
bined: 

Always draft the outside garment two bust numbers 
larger in front than the back is drafted. Strict adherence 
should be given to the above, or the garment will bind 
across the bust, which causes wrinkles to appear run- 
ning from the pit of the arm in the direction of the 
neck. 

When cutting the back of the neck for the outside 
garment, you should only draft the back of the neck — 
-J- — of an inch instead of — | — inch. 

THE LETTER T. 

As shown in both the front drafting and the French 
back, which letter connects with each shoulder line. 

This letter is shown simply as a guide how shoulders 
should be cut shorter than the instructions teach to 
cut the measure of the shoulder. If you desire to cut a 
very short shoulder, you should draft the arms eye the 
same as for an ordinary garment, or as if you had no in- 
structions whatever for an exceptionally short shoulder ; 
but in case you desire a short shoulder, cut the shoulder 
off straight at dot 20, and take any amount you may de- 
sire from the length of the shoulder in this way, but do 
not in any case affect the distance from dot 20 to line A 
in the front drafting, or narrowing the distance from dot 7 
to line A in the French back. If in any case you should 
cut your arm-hole lapger than the instructions teach 
you to do, your garment will bind across the bust and 
form wrinkles about the neck ; on this account, strict 
adherence should be given to the above paragraph. 

VARIOUS STYLES OF DARTS, AND WHY DRESSES WRINKLE 
ABOUT THE WAIST AND UNDER THE ARM. 

There -are some ladies whose forms are very peculiar. 
One of the difficult forms to fit is one that is apparently 
larger between the point where the top of the dart 
should come and the waist. 

It is beyond the judgment of the average cutter 
to notice this deficiency when taking a measure, but if 
you have taken a correct measure and drafted your gar- 
ment according to instructions, and notice the dress 
wrinkles about the waist and under the arm, this is a 
positive prove of the deficiency in the form, which is 
many times caused by sickness, but is seldom natural. 

To avoid these wrinkles, if they are very bad, the 
darts should be curved the opposite direction from the 
ordinary forms, but if the wrinkles are slight, you may 
simply draft the darts straight from the waist line to 
the top. 

If in any case you notice the dress binds or wrinkles 
about the darts below the waist, the darts should be in 
this case curved so as to strike the centre line from — 
4 — to — 6 — inches below the waist, and for appearance 
of seam may continue from — 8 — to — 10 — inches below 
the waist, but not taking up any more cloth. 

There are some ladies who lean forward, and their 
dresses appear to wrinkle about the neck. This is an 
indication of what is termed in dressmaking " hollow 
chests," and may be avoided in various ways. 

1st. A simple and very effective rule is to pad the 
dress in front and a portion of the under-arm gore with 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WOR£ ON DRESS-MAKING. 



about two thicknesses of wadding, circling around the 
arms eye of the dress, about — 2 — to — 2£ — inches distant 
from the arms eye, and about one thickness, continuing 
to the waist or top of darts and covering the entire under 
arm gore — 2 — to— 3 — inches above the waist. In extreme 
cases one more thickness of wadding may cover the entire 
front of the dress, and in all cases for such forms as above 
described, the front shoulder should be stretched fully 
three-fourths of an inch. 

There are many fine forms which require wadding to 
build up the deficiencies that are caused by large busts. 
These forms are generally very low about the arm pit, 
and it is not desirable or best to cut the dress to fit them 
perfectly without the wadding. The wadding may either 
be worn in the dress in the form of a pad, or sewed fast 
to the lining befpre the goods are put on the lining. 

I would here say to my readers who are desirous of 
becoming more thoroughly convinced as to the value and 
necessity of using wadding or pads to improve the ap- 
pearance of their customers, I will mail them a pattern 
of such a form as above described, with a measure, 
and attach to said pattern the wadding as it should be 
placed on the lining, or I will attach both the wadding 
and pads to pattern if desired, and will mail them free 
on receipt of 50 cents in postage stamps or money. This 
would impart the lesson practically, and be of great 
value to young dress-makers; and if desired, for 50 cents 
more I will send a lining cut, and prepared as it should 
be made up. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOB BASTING AND FINISHING WAISTS, CUT- 
TING DRAPERIES, ETC. 
NO PART OP DRESS-MAKING IS MORE IMPORTANT 

than the above departments, and yet I can with perfect 
safety say that it is a positive fact that but few dress- 
makers, as well as ladies who make their own dresses 
and those of their children, seldom 

THINK OF THE IMPORTANCE 

or attention that should be given when basting a waist 
and when cutting draperies. But few who even claimed 
to be classed among the best dress-makers of our country 
pretend to use any practical rule or judgment when cut- 
ting draperies as well as other trimmings. 

NOW, MY READER, 

if you be a dress-maker or not, you should give your 
most careful attention to the following instructions: 
First, your writer admits that many times a dress-maker 
can not make a dress as she would desire to do because 
the customer does not supply the full amount of goods, 
and many times, if the dress-maker fully understood her 
business and would measure the goods, and if not suffi- 
cient to make the dress desired, the customer would at 
once supply more; but instead of this the dress-maker 
many times says nothing, because she is not competent 
and can not tell to save her life how much goods it will 
take to make a dress of a selected design ; and that this 
difficulty may be overcome 

I OFFER THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS: 

First, I deem it proper to show the finishing of waists. 
Many dress-makers never think that a waist must be fin- 
ished properly or it will not fit perfect, and others know 
nothing about how to finish a waist. 

THE FINISHING OF WAISTS 

is as much important as to cut them correct. One of 
my cheapest and best finishes for a waist is 

A SIMPLE OVERCAST. 

The overcast finish always fits more perfect than if the 
seams are bound, because the binding takes up more 
room over seams and costs from 40 to 60 cents for each 
waist, while the silk for a fine overcast finish only costs 
from 6 to 10 cents a waist. The leading French dress- 
makers all use the fine overcast finish, and, as they stand 



at the head of the profession of dress-making, we must 
offer their work as some authority. However, the French 
dress-makers admit I teach the finest and cheapest fin- 
ishes that have ever been used. 

TO OVERCAST A WAIST 

new beginners should always turn the edges of all the 
seams in before commencing to overcast, and baste the 
two edges of each seam together, then commence over- 
casting with a button-hole twist of a bright color. I 
generally use a bright blue or red twist for overcasting 
seams. 

BE CAREFUL WHEN OVERCASTING NOT TO DRAW YOUR 
THREAD TIGHT. 

When overcasting, if you draw your thread tight your 
waist will not fit for a nice overcast finish ; your thread 
should be drawn so as it will appear very loose. It is a 
fact that I have as much trouble teaching ladies not to 
draw their thread tight when overcasting as to teach 
them other work that should be much harder to learn. 

FOR A FINER OVERCAST FINISH 

prepare the seams as above directed and use two colore 
of thread, say blue and red. Run one thread between 
the edges of the seams you are overcasting and overcast 
with the other color. Always overcast just on the edge 
of the seam, so as to show as much of the thread used in 
overcasting as possible, and take every stitch as near the 
seam as you can. Be very careful not to draw one single 
stitch tight. It would be well for new beginners who 
wish to learn to finish a waist nicely to commence on a 
small piece of cloth, and by so doing you will soon learn 
all the fine finishes given in this article. 

HOW TO BIND THE SEAMS OF A WAIST. 

Use ribbon about \ to f of an inch wide, and bind 
each seam separately. This finish is admired by many 
as much as the overcast, but it is not so good ; and yet 
if the binding is put on well it will affect the fit of the 
dress but little. 

VERY IMPORTANT. 

Commence basting all seams at the waist and baste 
up; then baste from the waist down. This is very im- 
portant, and will save much trouble by avoiding all mis- 
takes which occur by improper basting. Never allow 
any one to baste or stitch up a waist who does not un- 
derstand how to baste or run a machine. 

DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES. 

In addition to the directions printed elsewhere in this 
book, or on Moody's System, the following instructions 
should be strictly observed; otherwise many mistakes will 
occur for which the system would be blamed, when the 
fault was in the measure. 

First, observe the position of the broken line around 
the neck and the form in which the cord is tied around 
the waist, which will be more fully described in this 
article ; also the position of the hand appearing between 
the shoulders in the back, which is grasping the tape 
measure in the exact position and form which your hand 
should be when taking the measure; also the position of 
the fingers in front. 

The question is often asked: "Do you take the 
measure high up between the shoulders in the back?" 
The answer is positively "Yes." You should also have 
the line exactly over the fullest part of the bust in front, 
when the fingers are adjusted between the line and the 
bust, and at the same time the line should not be loose 
nor extremely tight, but should be snug and in such a 
form that the measure would be exact. 

A very good way to test the correctness of your bust 
measure is to remove the fingers in front, leaving the 
line in the same position and tightening it in the back, 
observing that it is yet passing over the fullest part of 
the bust in front. If in this case the measure is from 
2£ to 3 inches smaller than if the fingers were under the 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



line in front, you have the correct measure. In other 
words, a loose measure taken over the fullest part of the 
bust and well up in the back is from 2\ to 3 inches 
smaller than when the fingers remain under the line in 
front. 

The waist measure should be taken without removing 
the line from around the form and taken very tight, as 
directed by the foregoing instructions. 

The cord around the waist should be tied very tight, 
as low down as possible, and in all cases, before the cord 
is tied around the waist, you should pass your hands 
around the waist from the back to the front on both 
sides, that you may know that the skirts do not interfere 
with the line. Often the skirts are raised from one-half 
an inch to one inch higher than the waist, thus prevent- 
ing a correct measure from being taken. 

If, when taking the neck measure, a large bow, tie, 
pin, or other obstacle may be in your way, ask the cus- 
tomer to remove the same, or you will not be able to get 
a correct neck measure. 

In taking the under arm measure the line should be 
placed as far up under the arm as possible and yet not 
be crowded to any greater extreme than the dress can 
be worn. This measure should be taken to the bottom 
of the cord; at the same time see that the cord is well 
down to the waist. 

TAKING MEASURES FOR A SLEEVE. 

In another part of this book I have extensive instruc- 
tions for cutting various kinds and styles of sleeves, as 
well as for taking the sleeve or arm measure 

WHEN BASTING SLEEVES, ETC. 

Always commence basting sleeves at the top. 

HOW TO CUT DRAPERIES. 

First cut your front draperies the length of your skirt 
measure. 

Second, if you wish a full front drapery, cut the front 
about ten inches longer than your skirt measure. 

It is true you can drape a dress if your drapery is not 
as long as your skirt, and it is true you could make a 
dress without drapery, but it is not possible for you to 
arrange a stylish drapery without plenty of goods. I 
always cut my draperies iO inches longer than my skirt 
measure, and by so doing my draperies are always ad- 
mired and credited as being very stylish. 

POINTED DRAPERIES. 

To drape a dress so the point will fall in front : Form 
your plaits about £ the distance below the waist band 
and drape on side with full plaits; then lay about three 
small plaits on the opposite side, or as many as may be 
required to arrange or leave the point as desired in front 
or on either side. When the drapery is desired to be 
square in, then drape or plait up each side alike. The 
width of the front drapery should be fully •§ the length 
of your skirt measure. 

WHEN DRAPING A DRESS 

you should always avoid showing all seams or sharp folds 
in your goods, and by careful management you can 
easily hide every seam and sharp fold. 

TO ARRANGE A STYLISH DRAPERY 

it is best to commence draping or making your folds 
near the bottom and place the head of your plaits back 
well on the hips, so as not to allow too much fullness in 
front. 

TO FORM A PANEL 

on the side, plait up one side of your front drapery in 
plaits, say 1£ to 3 inches wide, then open the plaits in 
the centre, which will form a large panel or double box- 
plait down the side and form a point in front, which may 
be changed to the opposite side by making a few folds 
near the top. 



HOW TO MAKE A PLAITED SKIRT. 

First make the foundation of your skirt, and cut your 
goods for plaited skirt according to the style of plaits 
you wish to make. If you wish a full-plaited skirt your 
goods must be three times the width of your skirt; say, 
if your skirt is 2£ yards wide the goods you wish for 
the plaits should be 7^ yards, but if you only wish to 
make what is called a sham plait you only require from 
1^ to twice the width of your skirt. The sham skirts 
are only worn by ladies who have but little money and 
wish to make a silk dress for the same money a calico 
would cost if properly made. 

A DRESS-MAKER SHOULD 

not attempt to make a dress without sufficient goods. If 
she does she will not give satisfaction, and will generally 
lose more time planning than the money is worth she 
gets for making a dress for customers who want others 
to be annoyed at their expense. Much could be said 
about such customers, but I trust my readers will under- 
stand what I have not explained, as I well know all dress- 
makers are well acquainted with such customers. 

TO CUT BACK DRAPERIES 

for a scant back drapery, cut the goods the full length 
of your skirt measure, and if you wish a stylish back 
drapery, cut goods for drapery from 12 to 15 inches 
longer than skirt measure. Always cut all your draperies 
square at each end, and drape so as to form a round 
corner or a point. However, you may turn the point 
under, if required to make the drapery appear more be- 
coming to your customer. 

THINK OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING 

when taking an order, and probably you have a girl 
in your employ that is about the same figure of your 
customer, and if so, when draping the dress drape it 
with the assistance of said girl as becoming as possible 
to your customer's figure. It is true you can not drape 
a dress as becoming without the wearer being present, 
unless you have had a long experience. 

IT IS SAID BY MANY 

that draping a dress is a gift. This is not true, as I have 
proven many a time by teaching dress-makers in one 
hour to drape a dress as stylish and pretty as those who 
have been claimed to be gifted with a talent for draping, 
and when I teach a young girl to become noted for drap- 
ing they often say she had a natural gift for draping. 

DRAPING A DRESS 

is mechanical, and is not a gift; it can better be called 
experience than a gift. I have less trouble teaching 
draping than many other parts of dress-making, because 
I teach a mechanical system of cutting draperies, and 
also for arranging them becoming to the various forms. 

IT IS TRUE ONE MUST 

have some experience or teaching to become competent 
to drape a dress becoming; and that new beginners may 
get more practice and experience I advise that you buy 
say one quire or so of manilla paper, size 30x40 and 
about 35 pounds to the ream, and as this paper is in 
sheets about the proper width and length for draperies, 
you can easily learn by practicing how to arrange many 
pretty and stylish draperies; and again, these paper 
draperies are very valuable to show your customers, as 
well as to give you an abundant confidence in yourself 
for draping a stylish dress. 

TO CUT AND MAKE PLAITING. 

The question is asked me daily, "How much plaiting 
does it take, or how many widths of goods will it take, 
to make the plaiting for a dress?" I always answer as 
follows: I cut my plaiting, or the goods before plaited, 
so it will go around the skirt 3 to 4 times — 3 times 
makes a nice plaiting for heavy silks or stiff goods of 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



any kind— and often when you are short of goods you 
may only use 1\ times the width of or length of your 

Elaiting when completed. I always hem my plaiting by 
and, as plaiting hemmed on a machine is not as pretty, 
as the edges soon curl up and look stiff, while if slipped- 
stitched by hand the plaiting will always appear rich 
and new and give credit to the dress-maker. I always 
slip-stitch the' hems of my draperies, and while I give 
you the best rule for making pretty stylish trimmings, I 
do not say it is best for you to make a dress for a very 
low price and do all the work by hand, but, on the other 
hand, I advise you to hem on a sewing machine if the 
customers will not pay for good work. 

\ MY MOTTO IS TO GIVE 

good value for the money received for making a dress. 
I do not make up cheap goods myself, nor do I make 
dresses for a class of people who will not pay for good 
work; but I know that many dress-makers have a class 
of customers who can not afford to pay for good work, 
and others who^ could afford to pay any price for making 
a dress are always beating the dress-maker down; and 
this latter class; are those who should get cheap or what 
I should call botch work, hemmed on a sewing machine, 
or any other way so as to make the garment with as little 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE FOUNDATION OF A SKIRT. 

First, cut your skirt lining. Second, cut a facing of 
crinoline or wiggin, If wiggin is to be used, it should 
be cut about — 7 — inches deep. 

If crinoline is to be used, which I recommend in pref- 
erence to wiggin, it should be cut — 10 — inches deep. 

I object to wiggin because it makes the skirt appear 
stiff, and it does not hang as graceful as the crinoline. 

The facings should be attached to each piece of the 
lining, that is, the facings used for stiffening, and stitched 
across the top on the sewing machine. Third. When the 
skirt is sewed together, if a neat inside finish is desired 
without much expense, and the skirt is to be covered en- 
tirely on the outside with the material of which the dress 
is to be made, the lining should be turned so the seams 
will not show on the inside of skirt, and when putting on 
the inside or finishing facing, it should be cut in pieces 
the same shape as each piece of the skirt is at the bottom, 
and about — \ — inch less in width than the wiggin or 
crinoline, and when sewing on the last facing you should 
cow the binding between the facing and the material of 
which the dress is made. That is, when sewing the facing 
to the bottom of the skirt before it is turned up on the 
inside to finish. This will save you considerable time 
and give a much neater finish than the old way. When 
the facing and binding is sewed to the bottom of the 
skirt all around, turn the facing to the inside of the skirt 
and finish the top edge with a blind stitch so it will be 
perfectly smooth— then turn the edge of your binding to 
the inside of the skirt and blind stitch it on. 

The above is a very simple rule for making a skirt, and 
is the neatest finish that can be adopted. 

Taking Measures for Ulsters, Mantles, Dolmans, Capes, Etc. 

First, to take the measure for a Dolman, you should 
take a measure from the point about where the hand ap- 
pears in the back straight around the form to the centre 
seam in front, or the front of the dress. The line when 
taking this measure should pass around about — 2 — inches 
below the point of the shoulder. The second measure for 
the Dolman should be taken in the same manner, com- 
mencing about 4 inches lower down than the former, start- 
ing at the centre of the back and running to the centre 
of the front. 

In taking each of the above measures, you should set 
them down one inch larger than you have taken them, 
which is allowed for looseness necessary for the Dolman 
sleeve. 



The third measure for the Dolman is taken from a 
point just below the shoulder in front, straight down the 
outside of the arm to the elbow. 

The fourth measure should be taken from the elbow 
and the inside of the arm to the band. When taking 
the first two measures it is well to have the customer 
raise her hand and allow it to rest on her chest. 
CHILDREN'S GABRIELLE. 
When cutting the Gabrielle, the directions teach you 
to draw line A— one -half of the shoulder measure, then 
to draw line I by placing the 3£ inch mark or part of 
inch mark where "line H ended on dot 6 and 7 inch mark 
on line C. 

This is correct, but it is often misunderstood, and the 
SJ.jnch mark is placed on dot 6, instead of the part of 
inch mark where line H ended. For instance, if the 
shoulder measure is 4f inches, line H would end at a 
point 2f of an inch from the end of line G, and in this 
case you should commence drawing line I, having 2f 
inch mark touching dot 6, and the 7 inch mark on line C, 
and line I should end at the 4f inch mark, making the 
two lines just 4f inches in length, and not each of them 
that length, as is often misunderstood. (See System.) 

When cutting the Gabrielle out, lines L— M and P are 
not to be considered ; that is, line L below line D; they are 
simply drawn to simplify the instructions for new begin- 
ners. 

A simple measure or an average measure for a child, 
is as follows, and should be used when learning to draft 
the Gabrielle, or any other child's garment : 

Neck measure 10 

Arms eye 9 

Bust 30 

Waist 26 

Front 1&| 

Back 12£ 

Under Arm 7k 

Shoulder 4f 

This measure may be copied from the book for con- 
venience of new students. 




The diagram above represents a boy's coat. This 
diagram is drafted the same as a little girl's dress, with 
the following exceptions : 

First, line — A — is drawn about — 1\ — inches from the 
edge of the cloth, and the edge of the cloth is curved, 
representing the broken line outside of line — A — and 
crossing line — A — at the bottom. 

The front is to be turned back to form a revere at 
about — 4 — or — 5 — inches from the neck, and when com- 
pleted will represent the revere shown in the front of 
a lady's coat on page— 12,— excepting it will not be so 
large. (Continued on page 12.) 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



JDOX-iHUC-A-ItT measure foe PEA,CTICINa. 
First Sleeve Measure 16J. Second, 17J. Third, 7£, Fourth, 7. 




HOW TO DRAFT THE BACK AND SLEEVE OF MOODY'S NEW 
DOLMAN. 

1st. Make dots 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, and draw lines A, B, 
C and D same as if cutting or drafting the back of a 
dress or basque. 

2d. Make dot 6 above dot 3 for under arm measure. 

3d. Make dot 7, 2 inches below dot 2. 

4th. Make dot 8, 4 inches below dot 7. 

5th. Make dot 9, 6 inches below dot 3. 

6th. Make dot 10, 3 inches from dot 9, or 1| times 
the length of line D. 

7th. Draw line E same as when cutting a basque. 

8th. Draw line F same as when cutting a basque. 

9th. Draw line G from dot 7, about 25 inches long. 

10th. Draw line H from dot 8, about 25 inches long. 

11th. Draw line I from the end of line F to line G, 
and so it will touch line G half an inch nearer than the 
end of line F is to line A, and make dot 10J. 

12th. Make dot 11, 2£ inches from the end of line F. 

13th. Make dot 12, 3i inches from dot 10£, or the 



junction of lines I and G, and about § to J an inch 
from line G, and make dot 13, 3^ inches from dot 5. 

14th. Draw line J same as when drafting French back. 

15th. Draw lines N, K, L and M same as when draft- 
ing French back. 

16th. Draw line O from a point near dot 11 to dot 12, 
but be careful not to draw line longer than line I. 

17th. Make dot 14 just the distance from dot 7 of 
your first measure Dolman sleeve, not including the space 
between the junctions of the lines I and 0. 

18th. Make dot 15 just the distance from dot 8 of your 
second measure for Dolman sleeve, not including space 
between the junction of lines J and N. 

19th. Make dot 16 just the distance from dot 14 of 
your third measure for Dolman sleeve. 

20th. Make dot 17, just the distance from dot 16 of 
your fourth measure for Dolman sleeve. 

21st. Make dot 18 about 10 inches from dot 17- 

22d. Draw line P from the end of line O, so it passes 
over dot 40, 3J to 4 inches above dot 41 to dot 14. 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



23d. Draw line Q from dot 14 to dot 15. 

24th. Draw line R from dot 15 to dot 16. 

25th. Draw a line from dot 16 to dot 17. 

26th. Draw line S from dot 17 to dot 18. 

To draft the under part of Dolman sleeve, make dot — 
42 — 3^ — inches below line H. Draw the under part run- 
ning from near the letter Q to a point two inches below 
dot 12 on line N, as shown in the -broken line, then draw 
the remainder of the broken line from the letter Q, pass- 
ing around dots 16 and 17 to dot 18, as shown in 
diagram. 
TO DRAFT THE FRONT OF 
MOODY'S NEW DOLMAN. 

1st. Draw lines — A — and 
• — B — same as for common 



Line W is also a part of under sleeve, and runs from 
dot 18 to a point 2 inches below dot 12. 

The broken lines starting at dots 13, — 10 — and — 18,— 
simply show the lower part of the sleeve, giving various 
curves and curvatures which must be used for various 
styles of sleeves. 

It is best for new beginners to cut this Dolman in 
paper first, that is, until they have learned to make the 
drafting without fear of a misunderstanding of the above 
instructions; and by sewing it up once or twice in paper, ! 
the most stupid person will understand how to cut any 
style of Dolman. 



2d. Make dots, —1,-2 
—and — 3 — same as for com- 
mon basque. 

3d. Draw lines — C — and 
— D — same as for common 
basque. 

4th. Make dot — 4 — for 
front bust measure, then 
make dot — i\ — toward line — 
A — from dot — 4 — just the 
distance the table of calcu- 
lations give's for under arm 
gore. : 

5th. Make dot — 5 — for 
under arm measure below dot 
—3— and draw lines — E — P — 
and— G — same as for common 
basque, excepting line— G — 
which should be drawn one- 
half inch shorter than shoul- 
der measure. 

6th. Draw line— H— parallel with line— A— so it 
passes over dot — 4|. 

7th. Draw line— I— 5— inches from dot— 4^ — and 
parallel with line — H. 

8th. Make dot— 6— just the distance from line— I— of 
the width of under arm gore and side body; for instance, 
if the under arm gore is— 3— inches, and side body— 2^— 
inches, dots— 6— and— 7— should be— b\— inches from 
line — I. 

9th. Draw line — J — so it passes over dots— 6— and — 7 
— and parallel with line — I. 

10th. Make dot— 8— one inch from line— I— and dot 
— 9 — one inch from line — H. 

11th. Draw line— K— from dot— 4| — to dot— 9— 
and line— L— from the. junction of lines— I— and— D— 
to dot — 8. 

12th. Make dot— 10— on line— K— 3|— inches from 
dot— 9— and dot— 11— on line— L— 3*— inches from 
dot— 8. 

13th. Lines— M— and— N— are curved lines, and are 
drawn from dots— 8— and— 9— so they will meet— 12— 
inches below the waist line, each having the same angle 
or curve. 

14th. Line — Q — is drawn the same as line — F— in 
under arm gore, starting from dot— 7. 

15th. Draw line— P— starting near the small end 
of arm shape and dot— 7— so it passes through dot 
—6— and ends about— 1| — inches above dot— 6— and 
make dot— 12— at the end of line— P. Line— P— in the 
front of Moody's New Dolman sews in the same seam 
with lines — J — and — N — in back, and should be drawn 
with same curve and the same length. 




16th. Draw line — Ai — with a little more curve than 
le— P— from dot— 11— to dot— 12. 



17th. Make dots — 19 — and — 20— same as for com- 
mon basque, and draw line — R — nearly straight from the 
end of line — G — to dot — 20 — and the remainder from dot 
— 20 — to dot— 10— with very little curve. Aim to imi- 
tate the line shown in above diagram. 

18th. No darts are required for this Dolman, unless 
it is to be buttoned up from the neck to the bottom of 
the garment, but in this case about two inches may be 
taken up in one dart. When cutting this drafting out, 
you should allow seams on all lines excepting the arm 
hole and neck. - 

19th. Be careful to always draft Dolmans, and all 
other outside garments two bust numbers larger in front 
than ordinary basques, and always cut off shoulder seams 
in Dolmans — one-half to three-fourths of an inch shorter 
than your measure. 

Any person owning this book who does not fully un- 
derstand the instructions, either for this Dolman or other 
diagrams that may appear from time to time, who will 
send the name of the agent or the medium through 
which they purchased the said book, with number, and 
price paid for the same, to me, will receive by return 
mail, free of charge, a complete pattern and drafting, 
with additional instructions, if desired. Said instruc- 
tions and patterns will be repeated as often as necessary, 
that the customer may thoroughly learn every diagram 
shown in this book; but in all cases when writing for ad- 
ditional instructions, enclose stamp, and give strict adher- 
ence to the above rules, and oblige Prof. D. W. Moody. 



10 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON" DRESS-MAKING. 



DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING SKIRTS. 




Is drawn exactly the same as Fig. 1, excepting that it 
is not as wide at the top or bottom. You may be governed 
by the figures shown at the top and bottom. 

This piece is not cut on the fold of the goods, as one 
piece belongs on each side of the dress. 



Fig. 

Is the front of the skirt and is cut on the fold of the 
goods — 4| — to — 5 — inches wide at the top, and — 9 — to 
— 10 — inches at the bottom. 

Line — C — is drawn so as to touch line — A — \ — inch 
from line — B. Measure down line — A — from line — C — 
the length of your skirt, measure and draw line — E — 
square across the bottom, then draw line — D — starting 
at the curved point of the scale, so it will connect with 
line — E — at a point giving the desired width at the bottom. 





Is drawn — 7 — to — 8 — inches wide at the top, and — 16 
— to — 18 — at the bottom, and must be the same length 
on each side at the bottom. Line — D — represents a lino 
drawn square from line — A, — and line — E — represents 
the new line equalizing the length of each side of this 
piece. 

The Back, or Flff. 4. 

Is cut — 10 — to — 15 — inches at the top, and the same 
width at the bottom, and cut one inch longer in the cen- 
tre of the back than the side that sews to the side body. 




TO CUT A 

Draft figures one and two the same as for other skirts. 

Draft figure three the same as figure three for common 
skirt, with the following exceptions : 

The arrow point on line— A — represents the bottom of 
the plain skirt. The broken line represents the curve for 
the bottom of the skirt, and should be drawn to connect 
with the solid line about — 3 — inches from the arrow point, 
and the solid line running from the end of the broken 
line to the top of the skirt should curve so as to almost 
connect with line— A — half way between the broken line 
and the top of the skirt. 

To draw the inside line on the opposite side of the 
skirt, make a dot — 1| — inches from the old line, and — 
4 —inches above the cen tre of the long side of the skirt, and 
draw the inside line from said dot so it will connect with the 
old line at the extreme point of the bottom of the skirt. 



TRAIN SKIRT. 

The broken line representing the curve is one that 
can only be drawn by the eye, as the various lengths of 
train skirts must be shaped differently around the bot- 
tom. The broken line represents a perfect curve, and if 
you cut your skirts accordingly, you need not fear them 
turning under or over. 

I always cut my train skirts so as to allow about three- 
fourths of the train on the third gore, and the remainder 
on the back, which is only a straight piece of cloth, and 
cut just enough longer than the third gore to give it a 
nice shape from the third gore to the centre of the back. 

No wiggin or extra stiffening is required in theseskirts, 
as is used in other skirts. I simply face them about — 10 
—inches deep with a soft material. 

I sometimes use crinioline between the facings and 
lining. 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



11 



VARIATIONS IN SKIRTS. 

Skirts are very simple and easily cut if the foregoing 
directions are carried out, and as an additional instruc- 
tion line — D — in Fig. 1 will be one-half an inch to 
one inch longer than line — A — and should remain so. 

When cutting Fig. — 2 — you should draft line — A — 
the length of line — D — in Fig. 1, and when cutting 
Fig. — 3 — lines — A — and — C — should be the same as line 
— D— in Fig.— 2—. 

To cut the old style skirt, you only need to draft Figs. 
1 and 2 in one piece and take up two darts at the 
top, of one inch, tapering them down to nothing — 6 — - 
inches below the waist. From long experience I have 
found the two-gored skirt to hang much better than the 
old-style skirt, which is cut with the one gore ami darts 
taken up at the top. 

The above skirt is very simple, and can he cut quicker 
than you can cut a skirt from a pattern. 

In another place I give instructions for cutting a Train 
Skirt, which is very simple and valuable to dress-makers, 
and should be studied to avoid buying expensive skirt 
patterns. 

GENERAL INSTUCTIONS ON SLEEVES. 

Sleeves have been for years the most annoying part 
of dress-making, and the most difficult of all work to de- 
scribe in print ; that is to describe them and give direc- 
tions as to how they should be cut, but with a little study 
it will be found very easy to cut any style of sleeve to fit 
the arm perfectly from the directions I have given. 
However, for a more practical illustration, I will mail to 
any address a pattern of four of my new sleeves on re- 
ceipt of 15 cts. to pay postage. 



The plaits should be raised or lowered so as to come 
exactly to the elbow. 




Directions for Cutting Moody's New Plaited Elbow Sleeve. 

Diagram of which is shown above. 

Draw lines — A — B — C — and — D — as per instructions 
on Moody's Sleeve Chart, and draw line — G — about — 3 — 
inches from line — B— at the top, and about — 2^ — inches 
at the boftom. 

Draw line — E — about one inch further from line — A — 
than the space between lines — A — and — G — at the top, 
and about — 2| — inches at the bottom. Cut your paper 
or goods off around the edge of line— E — . Fold your 
pattern over toward line — G — so line — E — will touch 
line — G — at the junction of lines — G — and — F — about 
— 13 — to — 14 — inches from the top of the sleeve; then 
lay three or four plaits at the elbow, or sufficient 
plaits to bring the sleeves square at the bottom, then 
draw a new line — E — exactly the same curve as line — G 
—and cut off whatever paper or cloth is necessary. Line 
— C — is drawn around the top of the sleeve chart. 

When testing the sleeve, if you find it too small, 
you may draw a new line — G — representing the broken 
line shown in the above cut, so as to increase the under 
part of the sleeve to any desired size. The under part 
of the sleeve is that part which lies between — B — and — 
G — and the "over" of the sleeve, that which lies between 
lines — B — and — E. 

Avery little study will soon enable one to cut the 
above sleeve to perfection. The diagram is exactly the 
shape the sleeve should be to fit the arm perfectly. 




The Old Style Coat Sleeve. 

This sleeve is only used in wash 

Full directions for cutting the same are given on 
Moody's Sleeve Chart. 




The above is a diagramm of Moody's New Sleeve. 
This sleeve is drafted similar to plaited elbow sleeve on 
page — 13 — excepting the dart, which is taken up as 
is shown in above diagram. 

The broken lines around the outside of the sleeve 
show the plaits at the elbow a little different from the 
other sleeves, and to arrange these plaits it is necessary to 
cut out a portion of the full plaits, and also cut across the 
plaits, as the mark shows, and sew a thin piece of tape 
underneath the seam connecting with the plaits, so as to 
reduce the fullness at the elbow and yet have a comfort- 
able, easy sleeve. 

The above diagram shows the sleeve just as it will 
appear when completed. 




The above diagram is a cut of the plain Coat Sleeve 
or Ulster Sleeve, and is drafted similar to the old style 
coat sleeve, excepting the curved lines that are shown in 
the diagram, which are necessary to make the sleeve fit 
the arm c' 




Undsr Part of Plain Coat Sleeve or Ulster Sleeve. 



12 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



(Continued from page 7.) 

The dart shown under the arm is about one inch wide 
at the waist, and tapers to a point at the pit of the arm 
and at the bottom of the coat. 

The arm-hole of this coat must be curved a little more 
than the arm-hole of the dress. Aim to represent the line 
in diagram. The broken line running from the waist to 
the arm-hole is the line you should cut by, instead of the 
solid line. 

The broken line that connects with the line running 
to the arm-hole simply represents the lap for the back 



of coat, which may be cut on the front or the back,, and 
may be finished with buttons if desired. 

TO DRAFT THE BACK OF BOY'S COAT. 

The back of this coat is drafted the same as for a 
dress, excepting that the waist line for the centre of the 
back and the side body are added together, which makes 
your waist line about — 4 — inches long; however, if de- 
sired, you may cut the regular French back, dividing the 
back in two pieces, instead of one. 

I will mail a complete pattern of the above described 
coat to any address on receipt of 15 cents to pay j 




The Above Cut represents the Front of a Lady's Coat. 



This is a very beautiful coat, and is not difficult to 
cut. It is becoming to almost any figure, and is to be 
cut the same as a common basque, with the following ex- 
ceptions : 

In drafting the front, drawiine — A — 2>\ — inches from 
the edge of the cloth and curve the front nearly the same 
as is shown above ; that is, before the Revere is turned 
back. 

The dart, as shown here, must continue only about 
— 8 — inches below the waist, where it connects with the 
pocket. 

It is necessary to run a basting through the lower 
edge of the pocket when first cut, and shrink the goods 
with an iron until it becomes smooth so as not to show 
a fullness below the pocket. If desired the pocket may 
be left out and the dart continued lower down. 

If this garment is to be tight-fitting you should take 
up about — 2 — inches in the under arm dart instead of 
one-half inch, and about — 2 — to — 3— inches in the front 
dart, and if it is to be loose-fitting— 2 — inches is sufficient 
to take up in the front dart and one-half inch in the under 
arm dart. 

You may be governed more correctly by examining 
the table of calculations on Moody's System, which will 
give you the exact amount necessary to be taken up in 
the darts to make the garments perfectly tight-fitting. 

The under arm gore is drafted about — 3 — inches from 
the front, the same as it would be for a basque or polo- 
naise. The broken line shown on the side of" the under 



arm gore next to the back is the line you should cut by 
to avoid a fullness that naturally comes under the arm for 
ladies' coats. 

If a vest is desired under this coat, or any other lady's 
coat, it is to be cut the same as a basque, but only con- 
tinued to the under arm seam, it not being necessary for 
the vest to run all around the form. 

The back of a lady's coat is cut the same as for a 
basque, unless it is to 'be loose-fitting in the back, when 
you may lengthen each waist line from one-half an inch 
to one inch. 

This pattern mailed to any address for 15 cents. 

TO DRAFT THE FRONT OF AN OUTSIDE GARMENT. 

Cloak, Dolman, Mantle, Jacket or a Coat and Vest combined 
Always draft the outside garment two bust numbers 
larger in front than the back is drafted. Strict adher- 
ence should be given to the above, or the garment will 
bind across the bust, which causes wrinkles to appear, 
running from the pit of the arm in the direction of the 
neck, and over the bust. 

When cutting the back of the neck for the outside gar- 
ment you should only draft the back of the neck — \ — of 
an inch instead of — \ — inch, 

No extra measures are required for low-necked dresses, 
square necks or pointed necks. You are only required to 
shape the ordinary draftings as you may desire for such 
garments. 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



13 




THE ANNEXED DIAGRAMS OR ILLUSTRA- 
TIONS 

Are given to show how the draft may 
be made to save both time and mate- 
rial. It is found more advantageous 
when cutting Ulsters or Jackets. 

To cut an Ulster as shown in this 
diagram, you only require 4 inches 
less than twice the length of the gar- 
ment. This calculation, of course, is 
for double width goods, such as are 
generally used for cutting Ulsters and 
| Jackets. 

Allow ten inches for the plaits in 
I back, which generally commence two 
finches below the waist, leaving suffi- 
Icient cloth above the Avaist for the top 
I of the sleeve, as shown in the annexed 
I diagram. 

The space on the opposite side, or 
I next to the straight line in side body, 
lis the proper place to cut the under 
I part of the sleeve from, which is 
I shown in the annexed diagram. 

When drafting the front of this gar- 
ment, draw line A 3J inches from the 
edge of the cloth, and curve the front 
about as the broken line shows it 
should be curved, or cut it perfectly 
straight. The curved front is more 
generally desired. 

These garments are generally drafted 
with one dart, which should never 
contain over 3 inches, but if the table 
of calculations gives for the two darts 
more than 3 inches, you should take 
up 3 inches in the one dart and 
the balance should be taken up in 
the under arm darts, as the broken 
lines show, for instance : If the table 
of calculations gives If inches for 
each dart, this would be 3£ inches for 
the two darts. 

You should only take up 3 inches in 
the One dart in this case, and \ to \ 
of an inch in the under arm dart in- 
stead of \ inch. All other propor- 
tionate calculations should be applied 
in the same way when only one dart 
is desired, if the garment is to be tight 
fitting; and if it is to be loose fitting, 
for the above measure or any similar 
measure, you should take up say 2 
inches in the one dart, and only \ 
inch in the under arm dart. 

If plaits are desired on the hips or 
next to the back, you should leave a 
sufficient space between the back and 
side body, or as much as your goods 
[ allow, say from 6 to 8 inches, 
otherwise 3 inches space is sufficient 
space to leave between the back and 
side body at the waist line. In all 
cases, the same space should be al- 
lowed at the top of the side body that 
you allow at the waist, so that the two 
curves would be exactly the same. 
The back of an Ulster should always 
be cut one inch longer than, the long 
side of the side body. 



14 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 




The above Diagram Illustrates how the Drafting should be made for 
the Double Under Arm Gores. 

1st. Draw lines — A — and — B — same as for common 



2d. Make dots one and — 2 — same as for common 



. 3d. Make dot — 3 — same as for common basque, and 
draw line — D— from dot — 3. 

4th. Make dot — 4 — for front bust measure, and the 
new dot — 4 — same as for common basque. 

5th. The dot — 2 — in the above diagram near dot — 8 
— should be dot — 5 — , and is made below dot — 3 — the 
distance of under arm measure. 

6th. Make dots — 6 — and — 7 — same as for common 
basque. 

7th. To draft the double under arm gore, it is neces- 
sary to deduct a portion of each waist line so as to allow 
an equal number of inches or parts of inches for second 
under arm gore, which deduction may be made as fol- 
lows: For instance, if your bust measure is — 56 — inches, 
and waist measure— 40— inches, there being no calcu- 
lation given on the back of Moody's System for a — 56- 
inch bust measure, you should use the calculation given 
at the head of the first column, which is — 51 — inches 
bust measure and — 40 — inches waist measure. Line — D — 
is given in this calculation — 3| — inches, line — E — 5 — 
inches, width of under arm gore — 4| — inches. 



You should deduct from each piece a 

following table: 

For instance: 

Line D. Line E. 

3£ inches. 5 inches. 
Deduct, 1 " 14 " 



Actual Length, 2| inches. 3^ inches. 
Now add the total amount deducted to 



under arm gore, 



shown in the 

Width of 

under arm gore. 

4f inches. 

lj " 

3£ inches. 
3f " 



Result, 7i inches. 



Then divide the— 7^ — 
inches by— 2— making two 
under arm gores — 3| — in- 
ches each, line — E — 3$ — 
inches, and line — D — 2\ — 
inches. 

All other calculations for 
double under arm gores are 
made in the same way. It is 
necessary that you should al- 
ways show the exact result 
in inches that is given in the 
original calculation. For 
instance, in this case, adding 
the length of line — D — line 
— E— and width of under 
gore, the whole amount — 
13f — inches, and the same 
number of inches and parts 
of inches, is the actual result 
of the calculations when the 
divisions are properly made 
as above. 

This calculation or divi- 
sion is not complicated or 
difficult, while it is consid- 
ered so by many. 

It is only necessary that 
an equal or proportional 
amount should be deducted 
from the original calcula- 
tions to make each piece of 
the dress as becoming as 
possible, equalizing the 
width of each piece. 

Draft the two under arm 

gores — 3 — inches apart. The 

first should be — 3 — inches 

from the front, as shown in. 

annexed diagram, and then — 3 — inches space between 

the first and second under arm gore. 

The curved lines below the waist, that is, the first four 
curved lines, are drawn exactly the same as curved line — 
Q — in front drafting, front side of Moody's System, or 
curved line — Q — in the under arm gore. The broken lines 
running from the arm pits downward show the form in 
which you should baste this waist so that it would fit 
snugly around the arm hole. It is necessary to take in 
about — \ — inch, commencing — 4 — inches below the arm 
pit on each line, as shown in the broken lines in above 
diagram. The broken lines on the shoulder are shown 
as a simple guide for fitting high or low shoulders. 

If the shoulder is high, raise it in the centre, as shown 
in the broken line, about — £ — of an inch from the solid 
line. If it is low, draft the same above, only reversing the 
curve, as shown by the brdken line below the solid line. 

When drafting the darts for these figures, you may 
make dot — 9 — 2\ — to — 1\ — inches from dot — 8— instead 
of — 2 — inches, and for extremely large measures, you 
may make the space between the darts — 1J — inches 
instead of one inch. 

I do not advise my customers to pay any attention 
whatever to any statements made by those they are cut- 
ting for, as to whether their shoulders are round, hollow, 
high or low, but to use your own judgment in all cases; 
if there are no deficiencies in the form, do not deviate 
from instructions given on Moody's System. 

There are many dress-makers, and ladies, who have had 
dresses cut by incompetent cutters, who believe their 
forms are deficient in many ways but you should first 
test the actual merit of the system before believing such 
statements, and by so doing your result will always be 
better than if you trust to your own judgment or the 
advice of your customers. 

We will send a complete pattern of the above diagram, 
drafted from any measure, for 15 cents, postpaid. 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



15 



HOW TO TAKE SLEEVE MEASURES. 

1st. Place the hand on the center of the front waist. 

2d. Measure No. 1, taken from point of shoulder-bone 
to point of elbow. No. 2, taken from same point of shoul- 
der, around the point of elbow to wrist-bone. No. 3, {Arm's- 
Eye) taken same as for a basque. No. 4, ( Upper Arm) taken 
around the arm, half-way between the shoulder and elbow. 
No. 5, {Elbow) taken around the elbow. No. 6, {Lower 
Arm) taken around the arm, half-way between the elbow 
and wrist. No. 7, {Wrist) taken around the wrist. No. 8, 
(Hand) taken around the open hand over the thumb and 
knuckles. For loose fitting or coat sleeves, measures Nos. 
4, 6, and 8 may be omitted. 

PRACTICING MEASURES. 
No. 1— 13= No. 2,— 23= No. 3,— 12 = No. 4—11 = 
No. 5 — ll=No. 6,— 9*=No. 7 — 6=No. 8—8. 



HB^fl ^R 



1st. 



TIGHT-FITTING SLEEVE. 

Draw lines A and B same as Fig. 1. 



Make dots on line A as follows: Dot 1 — 1\ inches; 
dot 2 — 4^ inches ; dot 3 — 1 inch more than measure No. 1 ; 
and dot 4 measure No. 2 below the junction of lines A and B. 

3d. Draw lines C, D, E and F about 15 inches square 
out from dots 1, 2, 3 and 4. 

4th. Make dot 5 on line B \ inch less than one-half 
the arm's-eye measure from the junction of lines A and B; 
dot 6 on line C 1J inches less than one-half the arm's-eye 
measure from dot 1 ; dot 7 on line C 4J inches from dot 6 ; 
and dot 8 — \ of an inch square above dot 6. 

5th. Draw line H from dot 5 to dot 7, (with the small 
piece) by placing the " starting point for neck" at dot 5, the 
side of back curve at dot 7, line G from dot 5 to dot 2, 
(with small piece) turned over and the " starting point for 
neck 1 ' placed one inch above dot 5, the side of back curve 
at dot 2; and line I from dot 8 to dot 2, with small piece 
face up, the " starting point for neck" placed two inches above 
dot 8 the side of back curve at dot 2. 

6th. Make dots on line E as follows: Dot 9 — 1 inch 
from dot 3; dot 10 — 2\ inches less than one-half the elbow 
measure from dot 9; and dot 11 — 4| inches from dot 10. 
Make dot 12 on line F 1 inch more than one-half the wrist 



measure from dot 4; and dot 13 on line A 1£ inches above 
dot 4. 

7th. Draw line J from dot 12 across dot 13 and about 

I inch outside of line A. 

8th. Make dot 14 on line J f of an inch from dot 13 
and outside of line A; dot 15 on line J 2\ inches from dot 
14; and dot 16 on line J> \ inch from dot 13. 

9th. Draw line K from dot 7 to dot 11, by placing 
the "curved comer of the square" at dot 7 the side at dot 

II (face of square turned down); line L from dot 8 to 
dot 10 in the same manner, except place the corner 1 inch 
above dot 8. Turn the square over face up, and draw 
line M from dot 2 to dot 9 with the "curved corner" at 
dot 2 side at dot 9 ; line N from dot 11 to dot 12, with 
"curved corner" at dot 11 side at dot 12; line O from 
dot 10 to dot 15, with "curved corner" 1 inch above dot 10 
side at dot 15 ; and line P from dot 9 to dot 14 with " curved 
corner" 2 inches above dot 9 side at dot 14. Draw broken 
line Q from dot 9 to dot: 16 same as line P. Lines I, L, 
O and Q may be omitted when drafting on cloth. 

TO DRAFT ON LINING, DRAFT UNDERSIDE SEPARATELY. 

1st. Make dot 1 on line C 1 inch from dot 7, then 
draw a new line A from dot 1 parallel to the first line A. 

2d. Make dots 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15 and 
16, and draw lines I, J, L, M, O and Q, same as above, 
except, make dot 15 but'2J inches from dot 16. 

LARGE AND SMALL SLEEVES. 

When arm's-eye is 14 inches and over, make dot 1 — 
2f to 3 inches, and dot 2 — 4f to 5^ inches below line B. 
AVhen arm's-eye is 11 inches or less, make dot 1 — 2\ to \\ 
inches, and dot 2 — \\ to 3 inches below line B. When length 
is 19 inches or less, make dot 7 — 44; to 3£ inches from dot 
6 ; dot 9 — | to \ of an inch from dot 3 ; dot 11 — 4 to 3| 
inches from dot 10; dot 14 — | to \ of an inch from dot 13 ; 
and dot 15—2 to 1^ inches from dot 14. 

TEST AND ALTER SLEEVES. 

1st. Measure the drafting at arm's-eye (or line C), upper 
arm, elbow, lower arm, hand and length. The arm's-eye should 
test \ to 1 inch larger than measure; the elbow and hand 
should test J to h inch less than measure ; the upper and 
lower arm and length, should test exact measure. 

2d. When the arms-eye is too small, extend dots 6 
and 7. When too large lessen distance. 

3d. When upper arm is too small, draw lines K, L, 
and M (nearly) straight or extend dots 6 and 7. When 
too large draw lines with more curve and lessen distance 
to dots 6 and 7. 

4th. When elbow is too small, extend dots 10 and 11. 
When too large, lessen distance. 

5th. When lower arm and hand is too small, extend 
dots 12 and 15. When too large, draw lines N and O with 
less curve and lessen distance between dots 14 and 15. 

6th. When length is too short or long, extend or de- 
crease distance to dot 4. 

7th. Allow for seams on all lines except G, H, and I. 

BASTING SLEEVES. 

1st. Baste up lines K and L from dots 7 and 8 to 
within 1 inch of dot 1 1 , then baste up lines N and O from 
dots 12 and 15 to within 2 inches of dot 11, then gather 
up the fullness on to lines L and O, baste up lines M, P 
and Q from dot 2 to 14 and 16. 

2d. Sew dot 5 in arm's-eye of basque 1 inch in front 
of the shoulder seam, holding the sleeve toward you. 

FLOWING SLEEVES. 

Make dot 12 on line F 2 to 4 inches more than wrist 
measure from dot 4; dot 13 — 2 inches above dot 4; dot 14 — 
\ of an inch from dot 13, and dot 15 — 2 inches less than 
wrist measure from dot 13. Draw line Q, to dot 13 in place 
of dot 16, draw line O across dot 15 to line F, draw line 
J for under sleeve from dot 13 to end of line O at line F. 



16 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



TAKING MEASURE FOR THE RUSSIAN CAPE AND DOLMAN. 

Only one additional measure is required for this cape. 

Ask the customer to place her hand on her chest, and 
take a measure from a point about the centre of the back 
to the centre of bust in front. 

Set this measure down also one inch larger than you 
have taken it, and draft accordingly. 

Take a measure for what is termed the high shoulder 
cape, illustrated elsewhere, the same as for the Russian 
Cape. 

A sample measure for Dolman, for 38 to 40 bust measure. 

The first measure should be 15J to 16J inches. The 
second measure should be 16J to 17^ inches. The third 
measure 7| to 8 inches. The fourth measure 7J to 8 
inches. 




It would be well to use the above measure when prac- 
ticing or learning to cut a Dolman. 

The above diagram represents the front of a little girl's 
dress, with the front dart and under arm dart. 

This drafting is made the same as the gabrielle, with 
the following exceptions: 

First, only one dot — 5 — is required. For instance, if 
the tabic of calculations for children gives — 1^ — inches 
for darts, and one inch to be added to the front drafting, 
you should take up — li — inches in the front dart, and add 
1J — inches to the front drafting, instead of one inch. The 
broken lines, as shown in the diagram, represent a nice 
curve for a young girl's pointed basque. 

The back of this dress may be drafted cither with the 
French back, or the seams running to the shoulder. 

To cut a little girl's polonaise, it is only necessary to 
continue the front and back down about — 4 — inches 
longer than the skirt measure when a full drapery is 
required, and drape the dress so as to form the points or 
the round drapery, as desired. 

Do not fear you can not cut this garment, as it is very 
simple, and only requires a little study and confidence. 

Draft the back of the above dress, or any other similar 
dress, using the French back or common back, the same 
as if cutting a lady's dress. 



TO DRAFT HIGH SHOULDERED CAPES. 

The following diagram represents the drafting of a 
high shouldered cape. 

Only one extra measure is required to make this draft- 
ing, which is taken from the center of the back, around 
the form about — 6 — inches below the point of the shoul- 
der, to the centre seam in the front of the dress, over the 
fullest part of the bust. 

For instance, if your measure is — 24 — inches, draw 
line A for front — 1J — inches from edge of cloth or paper 
and line A for back just — 24 — inches from first line A — 
24 — inches apart, then draft the shoulders and the neck 
the same as for a common basque, excepting that the 
back shoulder must be drafted upside down, so as to 
represent the drafting shown in this diagram. 

The V running from the point of the 
front shoulder toward dot — 19 — contin- 
ues — 2 — inches from the point of the 
shoulder. 

The V running from the point of the 
back shoulder toward dot — 21 — contin- 
ues — 3 — inches from the point of the 
shoulder. Dots — 19 — and — 20 — in this 
diagram are made the same as for a 
common basque. Dot — 21 — is made 
about — 4 — inches from the point of the 
shoulder and about— \ — inch nearer 
line A in back than the point of the 
back shoulder is to line A. 

The top of the sleeve for this cape is 
drafted about as shown below, only re- 
quiring a very little curve, unless for an 
extremely high sleeve, which is repre- 
5 sented~by the broken lines. 




TESTING YOUR DRAFTING. 

It is important that you should invariably test every 
drafting before cutting the goods. To test the drafting, 
measure the space, length or width of back and under 
arm gore; then measure space from line — A — to first 
dart; then measure from other side of dart to next dart; 
and last, the space between last dart and line — H — , or 
the line that substitutes line — H— . When this measure 
is obtained, if it is half of your waist measure, your draft- 
ing is correct; and if it is not just half of your waist 
measure, you must correct your mistake- 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NEW WORK ON DRESS-MAKING. 



A FEW SCATTERING POINTS EXPLAINING THE DIF- 
FICULT PARTS OF MOODY'S TAILOR SYSTEM OF 
DRESS-CUTTING. 

While in most cases the instructions printed on Moody's 
System and in Moody's Book on Dress-Making will be found 
full and abundant, yet lest by any chance our patrons may 
be unable to learn thoroughly and easily the use of Moody's 
.System of Dress-Cutting, we beg leave to submit " a few 
scattering points " by way of appendix. 

I. To begin at the .beginning. Trim the system with a 
pair of shears down to the black lines, leaving a narrow plain 
border about as wide as the card board is thick all round each 
piece to make it wear longer. Cut out also the narrow curve 
in the sleeve chart marked "cut this out." You will rec- 
ognize the three pieces of the system by these names: 1st the 
large piece of heavy board is the "square," the smallest 
piece is the "arm shape," while you can easily recognize the 
" sleeve chart" in the third. 

II. Drafting. Provide, if possible, some plain paper, at 
least as large as 25 by 30 inches, it matters not how much 
larger, and place the 25 inch side next to you. If you have 
no plain paper use a colored pencil on old newspapers. Be- 
gin with Fig. 1, old style back, at the top of the square, 
and in this and all other pieces be just as exact and careful 
in drafting on paper as you would be if you were cutting 
the finest dress. 

Fig. 1 — Old Style Back. — Draw line A by first 
making two dots about 12 inches apart, and each 1\ inches 
from the edge of the paper next to you, then draw a line 
along the long arm of the square through the dots, and ex- 
tend the line to the left hand end of the paper, and in the 
other direction about 25 inches. Always have lines A and 
B meet at the left hand corner nearest you, as in the fig- 
ures. In drawing line B be careful to have the short arm of 
the square exactly even along line A. Draw all straight 
lines along the sides of the square with the inch marks. The 
measure for practicing is printed just below the tracing-wheel 
picture ; learn the order of the measures and the measures 
so that you know them without "looking on the book." 
Always watch the figure you are drafting to see that your 
drafting looks like a "life-size picture" of it. Follow the in- 
structions carefully, and in "5th" make dot 3 from dot 1 just 
the length of back measure. "6th." The waist and bust 
measures govern the table of calculations, so to get length 
of line D look down the column headed ' ' bust measure " till 
you come to the measure you are drafting for; then in next 
column headed "waist measure" till you come to the measure 
you are drafting for ; then in the column headed " M," you 
will find the length of line D in the 40 bust and 25 waist to 
be 2 inches; then draw line D so that dot 5 will be 2 inches 
from dot 3. In 7th draw line E by placing the point of the 
index on the arm shape on dot 1, and the line above the 
number among those marked "Back Neck," which equals 
your neck measure on line B ; line E will be 1 inch long for 
a 9 inch neck, and \ inch longer thereafter for each addi- 
tional inch of neck measure, being If inches for a 12 neck. 

Fig. 2 — Old Style Side Body. — Follow instruc- 
tions exactly, and in 3d observe that line D of this piece 



seams onto line G, Fig. 1, so these two lines must be ex- 
actly equal. Get length of line E same as you got D in Fig. 
1, by using waist and bust measures as guides. In 5th, sup- 
pose the bust measure to be 40, then in the column of figures 
on white ground along right hand margin of scale find 40, 
and draw line F the length of the distance of the black line 
under 40 from the bottom of the scale ; this will make line F 
5|- inches long. In 6th be sure to have the system placed 
correctly before you draw the line. In 7th find on the arm 
shape the instructions for drawing line J, and just above you 
will see two marks just 4 inches apart. Line J must never 
be more than 4 inches long. 

Fig. 3 — Under Arm Gore.— There is nothing dif- 
ficult in this piece, but be sure to have lines A and B just 
the same distance apart their entire length, the waist and 
bust measure govern the distance they shall be apart. 

Fig. 4— The Front.— In 2d make dot 2 for front 
neck measure, by using the small figures below the words, 
"front neck measure" at bottom of square; for a 12 neck 
dot 2 will be just 3^ inches from line B. In 3d make dot 
4 for front bust measure, by using the white figures on left 
of scale. This dot 4 is not shown in the figure, but for 40 
bust measure would be 12f inches from line A; then make 
another dot toward line A from 1st dot 4, just the width you 
made the under arm gore. These two dots 4 are not shown 
in the figure, but the 2d is at the junction of lines'H and 
D, while the' new dot 4 is \ inch below on line H. In 8th 
make dot 8 by subtracting the length of line E in the back 
from front measure ; line E in back is 1 inch long for 9 inch 
neck, 1^ for 10 inch neck, and so on, increasing ^ inch for 
each additional inch of neck measure. 

Fig. 1— French Back.— In 8th place the square as 
directed, then draw the line. 9th, make the new dot 7 — 1\ 
inches from the junction of lines C and G, and straight to- 
ward> the dot 7 shown in figure. 10th, place the small end 
of the. arm shape 1 inch past dot 5, and the curved side to- 
ward line A , then draw line J so that it will pass over the 
new dot 7. 

Fig. 2— French Side Body.— In 3d, line C seams 
onto line J in French back, and, therefore, they must be 
just the same length. When drawing line J make two 
marks with your pencil on the arm shape, one at dot 5 and 
one at new dot 7 ; then when you draw line C use the two 
marks by placing the one at small end on dot 1, and the other 
wherever it may come on line B. Dots 4, 5, 6 and 7 are 
not shown on the figure, but they can easily be located. 
Thus dot 4 is on line A; dot 5 on line C, one inch from dot 
4; dot 6 is square down from dot 2, and dot 7 is \\ inches 
above dot 6. 

III. Be sure to take measures very carefully, follow the 
directions given in the upper right hand corner of the square.. 
The correct bust measure is about 2 to 3 inches larger than a 
snug bust measure. The front and back measures are taken 
from the same point. If you take the measure correctly, and 
draft as directed, the garment will fit perfectly without a 
change of seam. Trace out the lining with a Moody double 
Tracing Wheel, and allow seams on all lines except neck, 
arms eye and darts<- 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



PROF. D. W. MOODY'S NO 





Small Button-hole Scis; 



Novelty Button-hole Scissors. 




Moody's New Shears. 




Patent Double Tracing Wheel. 



"We deal in all kinds of novelties, such as Pencils, Pens, Tape 
lines and Crayons for Dress-makers and Tailors. 

We illustrate on this page Moody's Patent Double Tracer, 
Moody's New Cutter and Tracer combined, both styles of Moody's 
Button-hole Scissors, and will cheerfully quote prices in any line of 
goods desired. 

We have, in connection with our general business, an extensive 
purchasing agency, and have both ladies and gentlemen of long expe- 
rience in catering to the public, which enables us to supply any house- 
hold article or articles at from 10 to 20 per cent, lower than other dealers. 

We of course do not buy goods out of our line without a profit, 
tnly charge, say 5 per cent, for our profit, and guarantee to 



r customers fully 



One of o 



spe 



e dollar 
good Sewing Machines 
but new. 



i that amount. 
is Sewing Machines, and we can supply a 
lachine for forty dollars, and many other 
from twenty dollars up, not second-hand, 

s the sewing machine agent 



We care not where you live, nor 
in your locality, we will fill any order we receive. 

We also buy Pianos and Organs for our customers, and guarantee 
25 per cent, less than other dealers. 

We are also agents for all fashion journals. Should you desire 
any fashion journal published, we will furnish the same to you per 
single copy, or by the year, at publishers' prices. 



We are also interested in Dress-making businesses in various 
cities, and are prepared to execute orders for bridal and evening 
dresses, in the latest styles and finish. We- in all eases guarantee a 
perfect fit, at lowest prices. We will send samples of dress goods by 
return mail, with prices and time required to complete the order. Our 
illustrated instructions for taking measures will enable a mere 
novice to take a correct measure, from which we guarantee a perfect 
fitting garment. We also carry the finest lines of linings and trim- 
mings, at low prices. We supply linings cut to your own measure at 
from 75 cents to $1.00. We also cut all styles of patterns, to measure, 
at prices ranging from 50 cents to $1.50. 

Where it is desired that the pattern should be pinned, showing 
how the drapery should be arranged, with a flat pattern covering the 
drapery, add 100 per cent, to the above prices. 

We send all patterns and linings post-paid by mail. 

For the accommodation of Dress-makers we carry in stock a dark 
drab lining of the best English Silesia, which we will sell for 30 cents 
per yard, two yards being sufficient for waist and sleeves. 

We advise Dress-makers who can not obtain good linings in their 
market to try our 30 cent lining, and, when ordering, send 10 cents 
extra for postage. 

Trusting you will favor us with at least a sample order, that we 
may prove we are able to give better value for the money than any 
other house in the country, I remain, 

Yours respectfully, Prof. D. W. Moody. 



ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS AND ORDEBS FOR THE UNITED STATES OP AMERICA TO 

Prof. D. W. Moody, Cincinnati, O. 



AND ALL CANADIAN ORDERS TO 

D. W. Moody "& Co., Toronto, Ont. 



Copyrighted by Prof. D. W. Moody, March 23d. i 



